Xin Ban Hack Agi Mu Ss6
Full text of '^■1IHi■WmmmmvMMwTextile NewspaperCirculationsFrom the American Wool and Cotton Reporter.THE Twentieth Anniversary Number of this journalappeared in April, and during this period of a score ofyears we have met vsath more or less of that imitationwhich is the sincerest form of flattery.As the quality of newspaper circulation depends largelyupon paid subscriptions, we will give the sum of three hundreddollars ($300) if it can be proven that the cash collectionsfrom si.^.^.„.^.^. Spaper, either^'.^'y I mmi mw the immi I l!' '^'.° '^°'of the /-&of this ( gi Chap l.^-lC^'C? I lis test on bothsides sh i -^^.^ ' O f^i li ed accountant,that the iS '^^ '^'/V '^ M teit the sum ofhe conditions^1 1;S COPYRIGHT DEF6ai'i. ■: ^ U II Lthree h.' .: gi ioney shall bedivided '■ LIBRARY OF COiMGRCoS ' Association ofWooler:::.:::xi^i8iiSi3is?:S!S:'gigv v ^j^g NationalWool Growers' Association; and $100 for some form ofprize in such cotton manufacturers.
association as may beselected. This offer is open until further notice.WOOL an'^ cotton reporterFrank P. Bennett & Co., Inc., 'Publishers530 Atlantic Ave., Boston757 Broadway, New Yor^ City308 Chestnut St., PhiladelphiaOther Offices: — New York, 3 1 Nassau Street; Washington, 208 Corcoran BIdg.;Denver, 536 Empire BIdg.; Pittsburg, 2 1 5 Fourth Ave.; Salt Lake Gty,440 Constitution BIdg.^RHOADS LEATHERBELXIN'CAN HE DELIVER THE GOODS?' Is the tneasure for a man now-adays; and the same for abelt. BHOADS LEATHERBELTING will keep yourmacJiifiery going.Let us mail you our catalogue.J.
RHOADS & SONSPHILADELPHIA, 13 N. Third St.NEW YORK, 40 Fulton St.BOSTON, Hamblet & Hayes Co.,Eastern Agents, 105-111 Summer St.Factory, WILMINGTON, DEL.' C ■!=/C9^V^t:»^^LIBRARY of CONGRESSTwo GoDies ReceivedSEP 21 1907.Cooyrirht EntryCL.a6/^ XXc. No,COPY /a,Copyrighted, 1907, byFrank P. BsiofETT & Co., Inc.-7■10Jl Cotton fabrics Glossary'^ CONTAINING INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE MANUFACTUREOF EVERY KNOWN GRADE AND VARIETYOF COTTON FABRICSCopyrtt/ht€'/ 1S96 hi/ Benneii's Information A32 ' ' ' ' SSi'warp on face.' Back.fillinK on face.'
Buck.E' as.stnflin^'and if woven 12 quarters square, wouldweigh about 3 9-10 pounds per quilt;or take a 30-inch vesting fabric, madeof average No. SO yarn on face andback and 40 stuffing. The stuffing yamin this case is only twice the weightof the face, but tnere are twice asmany picks relatively thrown In.There is no back filling used in vest-ings. The back, when not used Inquilting, is floated. The organization,would be:98 thri-ads per inch on fact-,.„.„ ^^98 Dicks Average No. Ao.,98 ' ' Btuffing No.
40.The picks are thrown in two faceand two stuffing regularly. At 30inches wide the goods would weigh4 65-100 yards per pound.IN THIS EXAMPLEthe average number of the face yamis given. The fabric looks better andA COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY.wears bettei-, if warp and filling onface are alike, but it helps the weav-ing out wonderfully to have a consid-■«rable difference between the two, thewarp being from 10 to 20 per centJieavier than the filling.It is beyond the scope of an element.ary article like this to attempt anydescription of the means used to pro-duce the ornate designs of the fabric.The artist who originates textile de-signs must draw each design to fit thefabric he is dealing with. Each fabriclias its special characteristics as to de-sign, and each also has its limitations.The characteristics and limits of thefabric under consideration may beJiere stated.COLOR EFFECTS.1. Color effects are hardly admis-sible. The fabric is essentially a whiteone.
The quilting warp is sometimes-colored, so as to show a pattern com-posed of colored lines and dots on awhice ground. The design Is not there-by altered, for the pattern woven-with colored stitching may also bewoven entirely white.2. The fabric admits. Only of a de-sign of 'dots' arranged to producelarge designs.3. In the vestings and fabrics withsmall patterns, the quilting warpthreads, when not raised to make astitch, are floated.
The dots thenshould be arranged so as to avoid verylong floats.4. On counterpanes the design hasto be very large, and has to be pro-duced on a 'jacquard' machine of com-paratively small capacity. Sing along with skankin pickle rarlab.
This callsfor a design that can be enlarged inthe tie-up of the harness and to this■ end certain parts of the design are ar-ranged so as to admit of several repe'titions.THE NAME 'PIQUE'is now generally applied to this fabricwhen woven in small patterns withinthe capacity of the 'dobby.' Thisname particularly applies when thegoods are to be used for ladies' andchildren's dresses, men's shirt fronts,etc.
However, the fabric that is called'pique' when used for dresses orshirt fronts, would be a 'Marseilles'if made up into a man's vest. Thename 'pique' is probably from theFrench 'piquer,' to quilt or prick witha needle. Possibly the name 'Mar-seilles' Is also a corruption of theFrench 'matelas,' a quilt or mattress.A CORDED 'MARSEILLES.' Or 'pique' is essentially the same fab-Tic as the figured article, but is wovenrather differently. The warp is drawninto a three-shed harness like a com-mon three-shed twill. To produce thecorded effect the harnesses are op-erated by a doboy.
Two warps areused as in the preceding cases, onewarp having twice as many threads asthe other; the quilting warp is drawninto the back harness, the face warpin the middle and front. The peggingplan of dobby chain is shown at Fig. 2.Illamaluce tillingoamomauuaDHBBtuffing□■■amafiice Bliingaamamaanu'■Fig. 2.As this weave calls for four picks offace filling and two picks of stuffing insuccession, the lathe need only havedrop boxes on one end.QUILT WEAVE GOODSshould be finished so as to preserve,as far as possible, the convexity orpuff of the quilting.
To this end, afterbleaching and sizing, they should bedried on tenter-hooks. The piecegoods can be dried on the tenteringmachine, through which they shouldrun face down.
Xin Ban Hack Agi Mu Ss6
The quilts or coim-terpanes are handled singly, and arestretched on square tentering framesand dried in a hot room. There is afabric on the market called 'P K,'which is often confounded with'pique,' the names having the samesound. 'P K' is a float weave andthe fabric bears no relation to 'pique'or 'Marseilles.'